The wider shingle format, along with the enhanced Sweet Spot nailing area, means your roofer hits the mark every time. Want curb appeal? You got it. The upscale architectural profile and 6" exposure make your home the envy of the neighborhood. You can be confident that your shingles will stay put. They stay better and stronger. Be positive that your home is ready for anything a hurricane might throw at you. Skip to content. Understanding Hurricane Impact Windows Ratings. Some Background on DP Ratings Design Pressure rating is an older value representing the capability to withstand wind pressure.
The PG Rating Therefore, the Performance Grade rating came into existence to encourage more accurate measurements of efficiency. Related posts. Many decided to move away to a safer region of the country while others decided to stay and try to rebuild their homes and businesses.
This process took years to complete. One positive thing that emerged out of this was the fact that Andrew raised tremendous awareness about hurricanes, and forced many Floridians to take precautions well before a storm made a bid for the coast. South Florida continues to improve their preparedness standards by revised building codes that were a glaring problem in the wake of Hurricane Andrew. The building code standards in South Florida are now the toughest in the nation.
Tropical storms and Hurricanes are formed from tropical disturbances that travel across the Atlantic ocean toward the U. It is often the first developmental stage of any tropical depression, tropical storm or hurricane. When wind speeds reach 39 mph, the tropical disturbance becomes a tropical storm and is given an official name.
The eye of the storm is usually 20 — 30 miles wide and can extend over miles. Strong hurricane windows can inflict moderate to severe damage to buildings and may cause flooding in coastal areas. The Saffir-Simpson Scale ranks hurricanes based on sustained wind speeds and damage caused.
Well-constructed frame homes could have damage to roof, shingles, vinyl siding and gutters. Large branches of trees will snap and shallowly rooted trees may be toppled. Extensive damage to power lines and poles likely will result in power outages that could last a few to several days. Well-constructed frame homes could sustain major roof and siding damage.
Many shallowly rooted trees will be snapped or uprooted and block numerous roads. Near-total power loss is expected with outages that could last from several days to weeks. Well-built framed homes may incur major damage or removal of roof decking and gable ends.
Many trees will be snapped or uprooted, blocking numerous roads. Electricity and water will be unavailable for several days to weeks after the storm passes. Most trees will be snapped or uprooted and power poles downed. A window with a DP40 is rated to a pressure level equivalent to a mph windspeed, but it is tested for structural at a pressure equivalent to mph. If you are curious about calculating the numbers yourself, a while back at the request of a specific window company as a matter of fact I wrote a couple of simple formulas that will allow you to do so Thanks for the dynamite information, oberon.
We had mph winds driving 10 inches of rain for 8 hours right against the DP35 Certainteed sliding glass doors.
They leaked like a seive. We filed a warranty claim and learned that we could have ordered DP 50 I extrapolate from you numbers that that would have been good for 56 mph wind-driven rains. The warranty was denied, but they did 'add extra weather protection to bring the door up to almost DP50 standard.
I wondered how French doors and sliding glass doors might compare for rainworthiness--if they both have the same DP rating, do they both keep water out with similar effectiveness? Well, we had a nother northeaster last weekend. Winds at 35 mph for 48 hours, gusts to 48 mph. DP50 should have held firm for both, and in fact I think DP 35 should not have leaked.
The flip side of the coin is this. You could have the highest DP unit available and still have a leaker. Installation becomes even more critical when you are dealing with DP ratings. The DP rating is based on "proper installation". This means proper flashing, counter flashing, installation method, sealants, etc etc. You don't mention where the water is leaking in from, but I would make sure the top of the unit is flashed, has a drip cap, and that the sides, head, and sill are heavily caulked.
Most water problems I've encountered are solved this way. I didn't mention this in the earlier post because I felt that it was already complicated enough, but with your observations, slacktide, I thought I would add to the thread Window DP rating allows for a different DP for testing water infiltration and structural.
In other words, your window could have been tested at a DP50 for water infiltration and a DP25 for structural - conversely, you could have a window that was tested at DP25 for water and DP50 for structural.
The actual rating that the window receives would be the lower of the two test pressures. But, what it all comes down to is that two windows with an identical DP25 rating could have very different water infiltration rates despite having the same design pressure.
After the house was landscaped near the end of March we had one of the infamous yankee clippers fly through with 25 - 35 mph winds and 45 - 60 mph gusts. The next morning if found the top of the lower sash, sill, and floor covered with mulch that had blown through the window.
It looked as if someone had thrown a handfull of mulch at the inside of the window. We have these fronts on the average of at least once per week throught out the cold months November - April. The same thing happened each time. The house is drafty near the windows and the perimeter is noticably cooler than the interior. I watched the house being built and am fairly confident that overall the house is fairly tight no air through the electrical outlets.
A blower door test confirmed an overall fairly tight house. However, with the house slighly pressurized a smoke test revealed smoke rapidly exiting through the windows at the same points where the mulch and the wind enter It is very noticeable around where the counter balance string penetrates the top of the bottom sash and also where it penetrates at the top of the window. I have also done smoke tests at these points during windy conditions and found the smoke swirls vigorously whenever there is a gust.
The smoke pen also glows very brightly because of the air penetration during gusts. During the test the local weather station was reporting 25 mph winds and mph gusts. And of course after cleaning off the window sash and sill, mulch was again found peppered all over the place the next morning as always under these conditions.
The windows in question were Andersen series double hung. Many of the windows are tall 72 - 78 inches I believe. They are not tilt out. The builder discouraged because of air infiltration, but did not warn that the non-tilt might give me these problems. Incidently I had the same problem with my Thermatru doors. I have have many meetings with the builder and the window distributor, and the regional Andersen representative not just a local person.
After admittedly feeling a draft initially, both the builder and the Andersen rep toughened their position and blamed me for being overly sensitive to cold air, the location of the house with no wind breaks they knew this when recommending these windows , the shape of the house has two juts on the northwest exposure that help trap the wind this they knew also.
Andersen sent a crew to "install "tune-up" kits on all the windows. That may have helped minimally at best, but far from satisfactorily. Although I found this ludicrous I let them place storm windows on the two windows near the mulch bed. It doesn't take an astrophysicist to figure out why mulch falls to the bottom when it gets between the two windows.
So after I asked them to remove the storms and refund my money for the windows, Andersen wrote me that there was nothing wrong with their windows and that they had nothing more to offer than their sympathy.
The builder took the same position. So I'm left very bitterly disappointed in both the builder and Andersen. I have frankly been too busy to fight this during the summer months, but with winter returning, I plan to continue to seek full and satisfactory resolution. I have had three builder friends from other states who have been rather appalled at both builder's and Andersen's stance on this and have encouraged me to persist.
Has anyone encounter something like this before, and do you have any recommendations for coming to a satisfactory resolution? I would be happy to show anyone photos of the mulch peppered windows and video clips of smoke test. One aside I spoke with a Pella rep who previously had over 20 years with Andersen was very professional and careful not to trash his competitor.
He did tell me yesterday that Andersen did in the past have an issue with air infiltration through the balance box. That would fit with where I find the most severe air penetration Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated. I spent a lot of money on this home only to have it cold and drafty. I am not the least bit happy about the situation. My previous house was a 40 year old split foyer in which my son's and I put replacement windows.
I bought the best that Certainteed had at the time and installed sealed and insulated them myself. There was no air infiltration even on bitterly cold and very windy nights. I would often run my hand all around the windows and hardly believing how tight they were. I run my hands around these Andersen series windows and can feel the breeze coming through the cracks that I mentioned previously.
Start a new thread with a new title that speaks to your challenges and then copy and paste this post to that new thread. A new thread with a catchy title will catch more people's eyes faster.
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